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Saira
Posted by on May 21, 2012
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India, A Country Of Many Cultures And Curries - Part 2

Goan CurryThis week was as exciting as last week in the kitchen of Tulsi. I continued to add various dishes and techniques to my collection and like an artist; I experienced this as an addition of new colors to my color palate. Over the past few days, my repertoire has consisted of Upma – a spicy polenta-like dish (using semolina instead of cornmeal), Rassam which could be best described as a tomato consommé and Goan seafood curry.

Goan food in a nutshell is ‘vibrant’. The dishes are interesting and just a glimpse at their elements will indicate a ‘more than meets the eye’ story. Goa, situated in West India, is distinctly different to the rest of India. Creating a patchwork in this otherwise non-pork and beef eating blanket, one can commonly finds pork and beef on the menu and of course thanks to its lovely coastline; fish. It may seem surprising and inconsistent at first blush, but to understand the history of Goa, it couldn’t have been any other way. A state whose origins were planted in Hinduism only to experience 400 years of Portuguese colonialism will certainly communicate this through its way of life, language and food.

A Goan kitchen will look very different to that of the Punjabi North. Open the refrigerator and expect to find coconut milk, grated coconut, kokum (a sour fruit used in savory cooking) and the citrus note curry leaf. From the Portuguese influence, the savory dishes incorporate vinegar, sour fruits (guava, passion fruit) and pork dishes (pork vindaloo).

Today’s dish is a Goan seafood curry that we make at Tulsi. The dish is well balanced in terms of sweetness from the coconut, acid from the yoghurt and heat from the roasted spices. Each mouthful will yield

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a cultural dialogue of two very different cultures coming together and producing a harmony of flavors.

Goan curry works well with all pearls of the ocean. Baste a piece of salmon in the sauce or cook it with a combination of shrimp, fish and scallops and if you’re not in the mood for seafood, swap it out for chicken or vegetables. All combinations work. Throw on your beach flip-flops and unwind as you eat this curry ‘Goan style”

Goan Curry Ingredients

Spice mix

  • 1 tsp. ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
  • 2 tsp. ground coriander powder
  • 1 tsp. cumin seeds
  • 2 tbsp. desiccated coconut (shredded and unsweetened)
  • ¼ cup water
  • 1 lb large shrimp, peeled and de-veined
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 1 tbsp. ginger and garlic paste
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 3 cups tomato sauce
  • A handful of fresh cilantro, chopped

Method

1) Except for the desiccated coconut, roast the spice mixture until aromatic, remove from heat. Add the desiccated coconut and grind with ¼ cup water until it is a wet paste

2) Add oil to a hot pan, sauté onions until translucent, add ginger and garlic and cook until they lose their raw flavor. Add the turmeric and season with salt, cook for a couple of minutes

3) Add the tomato sauce and the wet paste and cook until the oil separates. Check for seasoning. Add the shrimp and cook until the shrimp is translucent in the center. Garnish with cilantro

Saira Malhotra is a classically trained French chef and graduate from the French Culinary Institute. A British born Punjabi, Saira has grown up around food which started from her family pizza business in a small suburb of London. Having studied in France and Italy and living in the Big Apple for the past 12 years, Saira has brought her European, Asian and American influences together via the palate and communicated through her food blog ‘Passport Pantry’.

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9 Comments

  1. Sanjay Lamba said:

    This looks so goddam tasty that i could eat it RIGHT NOW

  2. As a mjor fan of both this style of cuisine and of teh restaurant Tulsi in NYC, I am delighted to see Saira’s contribution featuring both. What a treat, thank you!

  3. Cecilia Williams said:

    Wow, this dish truly sounds tasty. I like the fact that the receipe appears to be quite easy and the items you need easy to come by. I also like the fact that you can substitute fish with chicken or veggies. I love my spicey indian dishes and look forward to trying this receipe over the next few weeks. Thanks for sharing.

  4. Sonya said:

    You had me at desiccated coconut! Seriously though, this sounds absolutely delicious. For some reason I have this (wrong) impression that fish/seafood doesn’t hold up well in some curries, so very helpful to have a summer seafood curry recipe. What is the approximate cooking time on this? Seems very quick! Thanks

  5. Mamta said:

    Coconut is my favourite flavour in curries.Mixing it with tomato sauce sounds very promising and looks like they will compliment each other. Can’t wait to try this.

  6. Andrew Robinson said:

    loved the last website so must try this one!

  7. Sonia said:

    Looks amazing!! Have to try. I assume I can substitute shrimp for fish or chicken? Also you put in your description acid from the yogurt… But I don’t see yogurt in the recipe?

  8. Hi Sonya,
    The dish takes about 15 minuts to make. The fish it self only 3-4 minutes but the sauce takes a bit longer. Let me know how it turns out.

    Regards,
    Saira

  9. Hi Sonia,
    There is no yoghurt in the recipe. The youghurt conatiners just ’snuck’ in to my shot of the chef in his kitchen. Thank you for clarifying.

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