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How to Use Up Leftover Potatoes

For my part, I always feel lucky when there are potatoes in the refrigerator. Sometimes they are leftovers: the four or five roasted ones left over from a roast, which somehow nobody got to; a half bowl of mashed, now two days in the refrigerator and beginning to crust over; two big reds, rolling around […]


The Magic of Marrow

Imagine a kind of magic elixir, a perfume that is undetectable, invisible, and imparts an irresistible attraction to its wearer. A kind of love potion, if you will. Well such a thing exists! But sadly, it only works on meat. But that doesn’t meat you shouldn’t use it, or that you should fall for the […]


Happiness is a $14 Truffle

Truffles, I always assumed, were a luxury good reserved for the few and the lucky, gastrocrats and princes. These rare mushrooms fetch vast sums in the world’s top restaurants, and you are lucky to get a few small shavings if you pay top dollar at the best restaurant in town. They are fetishized and slavered […]


Grilling 109: The Beginnings of Barbecue

This series is all about grilling, and grilling is all anybody needs. The holy trinity of meat, wood, and fire are more than enough to satisfy any person. Really. I love barbecue as much as anybody. And I love cooking it. But it’s not for everybody. I urge you, don’t start getting into barbecue. Stop […]


Grilling 108: Beyond The Black Kettle

Grilling is done best when done most simply. I counsel novices to cook on Weber grills of the convention “kettle” kind, because they are cheap and simple and have no moving parts. You have no choice but to work with wood and coal and heat yourself, because there are no elaborate mechanisms to do it […]

photo: matt o'hara

Grilling 107: Consider the Lobster

Lobster prices have never been this cheap, at least not that I can remember. I have no idea. Perhaps benthic radiation for the Fukushima meltdown has caused an immense population surge among these frightening, immense arthropods, heralding the rise of another Cloverfield monster, and our own doom. Anyway, I have been eating a lot of […]