Josh Ozersky
Posted by on February 25, 2013
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Marc Murphy’s Ozersky-Winning “Smokin’ Good Burger” and the Secret Weapon of Salt

As you may have heard, the Burger Bash was this past weekend. I got to see Rachael, although, sadly, not as much as I would have liked. We were both there for a purpose, and that purpose was to eat hamburgers. The Burger Bash is something like the TED conference for burger geeks. You get to see all the latest twists and tweaks on our great national sandwich. Most of these are, predictably, bad. As in Nature, most mutations are harmful, and don’t get passed on. But every year Shake Shack shows up and presents us with a perfect hamburger, one that’s immune even to the dopey stuff they sometimes put on it. (This year was country ham - a [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on February 18, 2013
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The Lazy Man’s Guide To Braising, Part I: Chicken with Red Wine Vinegar

As a cook, I don’t have much use for spring, being indifferent as I am to vegetables in all their many forms. (I prefer to only eat things with parents.) And fall, being the time of year when all the restaurants open, doesn’t do much for me either. No, winter and summer are big cooking seasons in the Ozersky household: the latter for grilling and the former for the big, deep, fatty braises that so please and clog my heart. I am obsessed with braising. For one thing, it conforms to my natural rhythms. A burst of frenzied exertion, followed by several hours on the couch. It cooks while I sleep, and when it’s done, I turn it off and go [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on February 12, 2013
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Behold! My New Knife, and the Changed Life That Came With It

Just like that, your life changes. Sometimes it’s a baby; sometimes it’s a tumor; sometimes it’s a knife. The first one isn’t coming anytime soon, and I can’t speak to the second. But the knife is here and it’s staying here. I now have the only knife I’m going to use for the rest of my life. The knife is an  Bob Kramer all-carbon 8″ chef’s knife, manufactured by Henckels Zwillig. Bob Kramer is the greatest knifesmith in America. (Here’s a video of him doing unnatural things with a chef’s knife.) I should say here that I didn’t buy it; I was badgering my friend at Henckels to use his employee discount on my behalf, and he got sick of hearing [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on February 4, 2013
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Asking Hard Questions of Teresa Von Fuchs, The Coffee Woman

This week, as a service to Rachael Ray.com readers, many of whom drink coffee, I interviewed coffee expert Teresa von Fuchs, who in spite of her formidable-sounding name, is actually a great gal and easily relatable. Teresa is the director of wholesale at Irving Farm Coffee Roasters, one of the city’s elite coffee operations. Theresa, when I go to buy coffee, every kind has a million varieties from places I never heard of. How the hell am I supposed to figure out what to get? There’s a lot of meats and cheeses most people aren’t familiar with, either. All you need to do is ask about them, the way you would at a butcher or a cheesemonger. Listen you. Don’t get wise. There is [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on January 28, 2013
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Nana’s “Chinese Roast Pork” Should Have Been Bad. But It Was Great.

I’ve written about my grandmother before. I loved her deeply, and not least because of the fountain of starchy, fatty treats she provided me daily. What a woman! She used to make a full breakfast of eggs, sausage, and home fries for me on schoolday mornings - and then put them in a used TV dinner tray so I could eat them in the car - thus giving me an extra 15 minutes of sleep. What an awful man she turned me into! But I adored her and revere her memory. Especially when I think of her Chinese Roast Pork. My grandmother was from Revere Beach, Massachusetts, and Chinese food to her meant shrimp with lobster sauce, won tons, roast pork, [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on January 21, 2013
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Building a Better Jambalaya (Even If You Never Made One Before.)

I naturally imagined that, having never made jambalaya before, that it would turn out badly. The fact that it didn’t, that it in fact turned out to be a culinary triumph here in Casa Ozersky, testifies to both my dumb luck and the usefulness of hubris. A better man, having never stepped up to making one of the country’s most beloved and cherished dishes, would - at least at first - try to make it the right way. It’s not as if I didn’t have a blueprint. I reached out to John Besh, the greatest chef in New Orleans history, and asked him how I should make it. He sent me an exact recipe for the traditional dish. I can’t [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on January 14, 2013
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My Beef With Meathead Goldwyn or, Why Resting Meat Matters

A great many meats have sat on my cutting board over the years. And every time they have, there I was, in a state of hysterical paralysis, barely able to contain myself. Every nerve in my body, every flashing neuron, all the cholesterol-choked blood oozing manfully through my veins, urged me to eat. “It’s been long enough!” they said. “It’s rested! It’ll be fine!” But, I knew, it wouldn’t be fine. The process of resting meat has been one of the fundamental laws of my meat universe. Cook a steak, and put it on your cutting board, and cut it up. Here’s what you’ll get: a big cutting board full of blood and greast. Well, not actually blood. It just looks [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on January 7, 2013
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Why Meat Acts the Way It Does, and Why That Matters

Food geeks, at least of the kind I count myself, have - for the most part - had almost no effect on American home cooking. Which is fine. I understand. Not everybody is going to sit around thinking of sixteen different ways to use leftover animal fat. But I think more home cooks are thinking about “why” as to opposed to “how.” Which I think will be a king change in how we all approach home cooking. This hopeful notion struck me over the holiday, when I was in my usual mouthbreating recumbant position on a friend’s couch. I had over the previous 24 hours engaged in a marathon flurry of debate between myself, barbecue oracle Craig “Meathead” Goldwyn, the blogger [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on December 19, 2012
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Bring a Meatatta to Your Christmas Party!

I recently got invited to a chef’s potluck party at Commerce restaurant in New York. A lot of great chefs were going to be there, I could only assume, and since the LaFriedas are also friends of the place, I knew I wasn’t going to get any points by bringing meat. What can you bring to a potluck? You know somebody is going to bring macaroni and cheese, various casseroles, meatballs, and the like. At a chef’s potluck, all bets are off. I knew that there was only one thing for me to make. The Meattata. The meatatta, as it name might indicate, is a frittata made almost entirely of meat. Now, I know that a classic frittata will often have meat [...]...

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Josh Ozersky
Posted by on December 10, 2012
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Pelmeni Party!

One of the weirdest, worst, and most enjoyable dinner parties I ever went to was held about 15 years ago, in South Bend, Indiana, and involved a large group of drunken Russians. The Russians were grad students at Notre Dame, where I was in graduate school. A chummy group of chemical engineers, they liked me and invited me to dinner at one of their homes. When I got there, I looked around the kitchen I saw what were to be the sole elements of the dinner: a giant bag of pelmeni and four comically oversized bottles of vodka. The entire night consisted of endless bowls of pelmeni and endless shots of icy-thick vodka. Pelmeni, I found out to be delight, are [...]...

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