A Man Reduced To Using Vinegar and Water

I know that the phrase “vinegar and water” has an unappetizing connotation, especially for those of us of a certain age. Still, I could resist the title, because I had an edifying sauce experience this week. As you know, I cook a lot of meat. Especially these days, what with having gotten fat again and […]

Mike Stobe, Getty Images

What I Learned in Hurricane Sandy

When, on the eve of Sandy, I, somewhat prematurely in restrospect, announced in TIME that comfy New Yorkers like myself, snug in our soundproof apartments, were far too sheltered for our own good. “New Yorkers [aren't] interested so much in stocking up against disaster,” I blithely wrote, “as having a staycation. Kitchen libertines all, they […]


A Meat Sauce Recipe For The Storm-Shattered

When they tell you that your city is in the path of a terrifying “superstorm”; when the Mayor declares your neighborhood a mandatory evacuation zone; when the certainty of a power and water shortage becomes undeniable – that’s when I start thinking about meat sauce. Yes, meat sauce! It’s become a panacea and an obsession: […]


The Taco Principle: Cooking vs. Eating

I just tried the wildly, inexplicably successful Dorito Loco Taco at Taco Bell. It was, of course, bad. Now, bear with me for a moment. I know this column is about home cooking, not fast-food reviews. But eating this awful food made me think of an important kitchen principle that affects even the most conscientious […]


The Five Minute Dinner

We’ve all had the dream: you are taking the SAT, and you realize that you have only finished the first page of forty with ten minutes left. You are fifty miles from the hospital, and the baby is already starting to come out. Or (and this is the one most likely to come true), you […]


An Emotional Trip to Lamb Paradise in Iceland

The green steep hills of Iceland are, you would think, the last place you would come to an epiphany about meat. Certainly, that was the last place I expected it. Having been flown there by the Icelandic government, I was looking forward to breathing cold air, looking at mountains, and attending an annual event called […]

King Arthur

Pork, Pigs, and Animal Welfare: A King Arthur Story

Loving animals, and eating them, generally are thought of as separate impulses. But sometimes I wonder. I went to a dinner last night at a restaurant called Northeast Kingdom in a bleak, barren, and remote section of Brooklyn. The occasion was the serving of a large Hereford / Gloucestershire Old Spots pig named King Arthur, […]


A Lesson in Doneness at Waffle House

My¬†obsession¬†with hash browns, like my obsessions with hamburgers, U.S. Presidents, grilled cheese and bacon sandwiches, Barbara Eden, and the works of Philip K. Dick, has taken me to some strange places. None of these are stranger, or at least more alien to my basic makeup, than the Waffle House. That Waffle House is without a […]


Come Fry With Me

I see where Friday is national French Fry Day. I’m not fooled for one minute by these fake days of observation, which are manufactured by the PR wings of trade groups to promote or another food. Last week was Fried Chicken Day. Next week will be something else. But National French Fry day, like National […]