When white peaches are in season (which seems to only last about five minutes in New York), nothing is more truly summer than the one perfect peach I have every year. Once they start showing up in the farmers' market I greedily buy them, and while I enjoy every white peach I eat, I really only ever have one perfect peach a year. When I find it, I scream and jump for joy – it’s pure hedonistic indulgence. Luckily all those less-than-perfect-but-still-delicious peaches have value, too. There is a lovely, traditional Catalan dessert called mel i mató, just fresh cheese drizzled with honey. Sometimes it might have fruit, too, but usually it’s just cheese and honey. This is a little homage to the perfect peach by way of Catalunya. Using a sharp mandoline to slice the peaches gives you sweet slivers that fall off like flower petals. She loves me, she loves me not...